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Archive for Basic Information

Diamonds are beautiful, amazing and mystifying. The adjectives to describe these precious stones are absolutely endless. But without a perfect setting to match such amazing gemstone would only make a loose diamond, valuable of course but no fun to show off! There are many types of diamond settings for your loose diamond to really take over the spotlight. Some are commonly used in diamond engagement rings while other settings are more perfect for use in diamond necklaces or pendants. I compiled a list of different Diamond settings to fit whatever style you want!

Prong Setting

The prong, or claw, is the most popular setting – and for the right reasons. It uses the least amount of metal to hold a diamond, meaning there would be less metal to block light from reaching the stone, thus making it sparkle brighter. This particular setting is also the easiest to make and in turn the least expense. Prongs are often found on Diamond engagement rings, although they can be used in all types of jewelry. Diamonds can be set with 2-6 prongs, depending on what style you would prefer. A shared prong setting is what you call when several diamonds are set side by side and sharing the same prongs. A “V-prong” is used depending on the shape of your diamond. This type of prong setting is used to cover the fragile corners of some specific cuts, allowing better protection against bumps and wears. Such shape includes the Marquise Shaped Diamond, Pear Shaped Diamond, Trilliant Shaped Diamond, Radiant Cut, and the more famous Heart Shaped Diamond.

Bezel Setting

This one is more of a classical diamond setting style that’s currently making a comeback. Now the setting is considered by many a modern look. With a bezel, the diamond is held in place by a rim or collar. The metal is bent over the diamond and it works with any shape. This setting is the way to go if you want to make sure that your diamond will stay in place and won’t fall of, since it protects your diamond from falling out. The setting grips the stone all around as well as protects it from scratches and chipping. Another advantage in using the bezel setting is that it can hide imperfections and it can make the diamond appear larger. A bezel comes in several variations including open bezel, half bezel or semi bezel.

Channel Setting

In this setting, two pieces of metal form a channel which holds several diamonds in place. The stones are basically suspended in the groove created giving the appearance that they are floating. Like the bezel setting, the diamonds are well protected in a channel setting since none of the edges are exposed. This setting is most commonly used with the Round Brilliant Cut diamonds, which are often seen in Diamond engagement rings. The channel setting is basically a U shape. Each stone is usually notched into the setting but sometimes a single groove is cut in each channel of metal which serves to hold all of the diamonds in place.

Bead and Pave Setting

The term pave comes from the French word, meaning paved or cobble-stoned. This particular setting is used with small stones and gives the appearance that the surface of your jewelry is covered with diamonds – like a street paved with diamonds. The diamonds are placed inside impressions in the metal and held in place with small beads or prongs.

The bead setting is basically the same as the pave setting with one difference – the diamonds are set slightly apart from each other. However, the term pave set is also used with rings that have diamonds set apart from each other. So basically the terms have become somewhat interchangeable – bead & pave. One common use of this setting is with diamond wedding bands. The bead setting has a few other less common names: bead and bright, grain setting or threading. The term star set is also sometimes used when a line of stones are formed with the bead setting.

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Not many of us recognize the elaborate process involved in the manufacturing of a diamond ring and the technical machinery involved in the task. With the new computer programs the measuring of the rough stone is much easier done. The program provides a 3D image of the stone and makes suggestions as to the possibilities of cutting and polishing of the stone. The best shape for the diamond can be determined which will address the possible settings that might be employed in the developed ring. Lasers are used today in order to insure that the best cut will be made to the greatest accuracy possible. A laser saw and shaping machine is then used to smooth the sawing plane.

When the diamond is cut and polished a second measurement is taken in order to grade the symmetry, clarity, color and weight of the stone. As a result of this process a certificate of authenticity is then produced for the particular diamond. It is very important to retain the certificate for your records of your purchase. Insurance requirements will involve, in most cases, a copy of the certificate and possibly a picture of the stone and ring. It is very important that the ring be insured as quickly as possible to protect your investment.

It is possible to laser inscribe, on the girdle of the diamond, an inscription of a serial number to prove that this is your diamond. After the inscription, a photo will be taken and then loaded into the certificate. Any inscription will be unreadable via the naked eye.

The results of diamond manufacturing is a very happy lady who will be ready to show off her new diamond as quickly as possible, not mentioning of course, the ego of the lucky guy who just bought the right piece of jewelry for his “lady fair”.

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Regardless of who is wearing the diamond, man or woman, a diamond is expected to sparkle. Sparkle is caused by the light working with the color of the diamond. The diamond cutters are well aware of how important light is and they cut the diamond to realize the most light within the diamond,

The diamond cutters who are the least in the trade often try to create as many facets as they can on the diamond in order to get as much sparkle as possible from a fairly cheap stone. The consumers who do not know better get taken by what appears to be more sparkle. Warped diamonds are often used to create this illusion in an effort to pocket the money of an unsuspecting buyer. This means that the market place can be the province of the shyster as well as the professional. Great care has to be taken when considering sparkle.

When not being awed by the sparkle of a diamond, there are other things that must be considered before purchasing what appears to be a great diamond. There are so many places that will sell only “perfect” diamonds. Be very careful with the term “perfect” as it means different things to different people. Unless you know something about the lab that graded the diamond one should take the lab grading as a bird in the bush. If the lab is super well known with a reputation for truth, chances are the diamond is safe. Other labs are only interested in obtaining their money and will fudge a bit in accepting a stone as being a perfect diamond.

The FTC came out in the late 1960’s and addressed what it considered as a perfect diamond. According to the FTC, only a D Flawless could be called “Perfect”. Now a word change has taken place and diamonds have gone from “Perfect” to “an ideal cut diamond.” The FTC has not stepped in as of yet, but will probably within the next few years to return to the accepted definition of a perfect diamond. When purchasing a diamond, always ask about the class of cut a diamond is. There are hard and fast rules governing the cut. Remember that a perfect diamond will have the required sparkle about it.

Sparkle can lead one astray in the purchasing of a diamond. Too many people purchase diamonds based on what they can see in the showroom. It is easy to understand that jewelers can make any diamond look good in the display case. The right lighting can make every diamond sparkle and shine, but when one gets the diamond under different light conditions, the sparkle is all but gone.

The purchasing of diamonds on the internet can present certain problems for the buyer. There isn’t any possible way for one to judge what is being purchased from a picture on the website. The only protection that a buyer has is the reputation of the internet dealer and that may take some searching to discover with whom one is dealing. One thing that a buyer must do is try to protect himself as best he can which may involve a third party acting as the purchasing agent with access to the original stone and who can judge the quality of the stone.

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Apr
23

Why You Might Consider Loose Diamonds

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If you are considering purchasing loose diamonds, there are many Jewelers that are also dealers of precious stones. Loose diamonds are often purchased with the intention of being set in a certain pre-chosen engagement ring setting. If you’re not really sure what a loose diamond is, or why you would purchase one, here is a little information to get you informed.

What is it? A loose diamond is a diamond that is not set in an engagement ring, diamond ring or other diamond jewelry setting. Most high quality diamonds that weigh more than 0.25 carats are certified by experts in a gemological laboratory to determine their quality and value.

Why Purchase Loose Diamonds?

Saving Money: If you purchase loose diamonds from a wholesaler or online diamond retailer, you are likely to save some money. Since these kinds of companies save on overhead costs incurred by traditional retailers, they are able to pass the savings on to the consumer.

Finding exactly what you want: Many people choose to buy loose diamonds when they have already found the exact setting they want in an engagement ring or diamond ring setting, but also want to pick the stone that will go in the ring.

Choices: Loose diamonds can also be set in a variety of diamond jewelry settings, such as diamond stud earrings, diamond bracelets, and diamond necklaces.

How to find them: One way to find loose diamonds is to go to a jewelry store and see if they sell them. Some companies have websites that allow you to browse through thousands of certified diamonds. Look for a company that sells only certified diamonds that have been graded by one of the five most trusted gemological laboratories and then find the shape and quality that meets your budget.

Be Responsible

Only purchase diamonds from a reputable company that has a zero-tolerance policy towards conflict diamonds and ensures that all its loose diamonds are conflict free and in compliance with the Kimberly Process.

Purchasing loose diamonds can obviously complicate the process of buying a piece of jewelry, which is why many people choose to simply go with pre-set stones. It can be well worth your while, however, if you have an idea of exactly what you want and can’t find it pre-made in a jewelry store. When in doubt, you can always head to a local engagement ring store for some guidance! Best of luck in your jewelry shopping experience!

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Mar
09

The Basics of Diamond Manufacturing

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Few people looking for a diamond ring realize the elaborate process entailed in the manufacturing of the ring. This process usually involves advanced machinery, and must take into consideration countless aspects, such as proportions, symmetry, size, color, clarity, brilliance, weight and inclusions.

The first stage is the measuring and analysis of the rough stone. This can be done by advanced software accompanied by a HR viewing system. This software gives you a 3D image of the rough stone, and provides all the cutting options of the diamond, taking into account any inclusions, such as holes and grooves, and provides you with different possibilities for polishing. This way you can gain the most profit from the stone. The information you get is the shape of the planned polished diamond, the number of stones you can achieve from one single rough diamond, and the estimated value of the polished stone based on Rapaport standards. The information is presented in charts and diagrams, so it is very clear and enables you to make the smartest decisions.

After deciding on the shape and size of your stone, the next stage is to mark the stone for sawing and polishing. With today’s advanced technology, this is usually done with a laser marker for maximum accuracy. The marking is done with the aid of suitable lenses and internal led lighting, and you can view the 3D analysis of the stone during the entire process and make changes accordingly.

Following the designing and marking of the stone, it can be shaped by a green laser sawing & shaping machine, which is the best solution for smooth surface sawing. The sawing is done in accordance with the laser marking lines.

Once the diamond is cut and polished, it can be measured again, but this time for a different purpose. The software measures all the different aspects of the stone, such as facet symmetry, proportions, clarity, color and weight, and based on its analysis it produces a special certificate of authenticity.

The certificate of authenticity can be upgraded with laser inscription on the diamond’s girdle. This is usually an inscription of a serial number, to prove ownership and to prevent counterfeiting. After the inscription is made, a snapshot is taken and it can be uploaded to the certificate. Some people like to inscribe more romantic things, such as dedications, words of love or secret messages (The inscription cannot be seen with the naked eye, but with a special loupe).

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