Conflict diamonds - or “blood diamonds” - is the term given to diamonds which have been mined in conflict zones, such as Sierra Leone, Angola and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Typically, also, the funds generated from the mining of diamonds in these areas have been used to fund illegal activities against legitimate governments and authorities, resulting in a massive level of human suffering.

The “Kimberly Process”, founded in 2003, is the diamond industry’s attempt to eradicate the world supply chain from such diamonds which are smuggled into the market. Reports state than anywhere from 1% - 5% of diamonds in the supply chain are conflict diamonds.

In December 2006, a Hollywood blockbuster movie starring Leonardo DiCaprio called “Blood Diamond” is being released by Warner Brothers. This will hit UK cinemas in January, and will bring this important issue to the public arena.

When buying diamonds, always make sure it is a “conflict-free” diamond - after all, a diamond is given as a token of love…..which should not, and must not, be tarished by a dark history.

Government agencies such as the FTC explicitly require the disclosure of most diamond treatments at the time of sale. Some treatments, particularly those applied to clarity, remain highly controversial within the industry ? this arises from the traditional notion that diamond holds a unique or “sacred” place among the gemstones, and should not be treated too radically, if for no other reason than a fear of damaging consumer confidence.

Treated diamonds usually trade at a significant discount to untreated diamonds. This is due to several factors, including relative scarcity ? a much larger number of stones can be treated to reach gem quality than are found naturally occurring in a gem quality state ? and the potential impermenance of various treatments. Therefore, it is unusual to see a diamond with good overall gemological characteristics undergo treatment. Diamonds which are chosen for treatment are usually those that would be otherwise difficult to sell as gem diamonds, where inclusions or fractures noticeably detract from the beauty of the diamond to even casual observers. In these cases, the loss in value due to treating the diamond is more than overcome by the value added by mitigating obvious flaws.

The clarity or purity of a diamond ? the relative or apparent severity of flaws within the stone ? has, like the other “four Cs”, a strong bearing on the evaluation of a diamond’s worth. The most common flaws or inclusions seen in diamond are fractures (commonly called feathers due to their feathery whitish appearance), and solid foreign crystals within the diamond; such as garnet, diopside, or even other diamonds. The size, color, and position of inclusions can reduce the value of a diamond, especially when other gemological characteristics are good. Those who prepare diamonds for sale sometimes choose to reduce the visual impact of inclusions through one or more of a variety of treatments.

More on the types of enhancements to come… ]]> http://www.diamondarticles.com/2007/01/04/basic-information/beware-of-diamond-enhancements/feed/ http://www.diamondarticles.com/2006/11/18/diamond-grading/spence-diamonds-4-cs-to-diamond-quality/ http://www.diamondarticles.com/2006/11/18/diamond-grading/spence-diamonds-4-cs-to-diamond-quality/#comments Sun, 19 Nov 2006 03:47:33 +0000 Spence_Diamonds Diamond Grading http://www.diamondarticles.com/2006/11/18/diamond-grading/spence-diamonds-4-cs-to-diamond-quality/ Perhaps you’ve heard of the “Four C’s” of diamond quality. Each and every unique diamond in the world has its own defining characteristics, and understanding each of them will help you make an informed decision when you come into a Spence Diamonds showroom.

Cut

Nothing is more important to the brilliance and sparkle of a diamond than its cut, as it is responsible for around 40% of a diamond’s price. A well cut diamond will reflect light from one facet to another and back through the top, creating a dramatic sparkling effect that only a diamond can emit. Only the most skilled diamond cutters can shape a diamond with exacting precision, to release its full brilliance, taking into account such factors as proportions, finish, and of course symmetry.

Colour

When examining a diamond, be sure to view it “loose” (unmounted) under a neutral light source, to get the best view of its colour. In the “normal colour” range, the colour of a diamond is rated on a scale that goes from D to Z, with D being the whitest diamond available, and Z being a tinted, light yellow colour. For most jewelry, a colour grade from G to J is usually best.

Why “D to Z?” Before this rating system was invented, diamond professionals used many other symbols (including liberal uses of “A” and “AA”) to rate colour, so the creators of the new system started at D, to avoid any confusion with the outdated ratings systems.

There are also various coloured diamond choices available today, but when you are looking specifically at a white diamond, you should understand how this scale works, and where your diamond of choice is rated on the spectrum. Also, the mounting of a diamond can impact its appearance. A more yellowish diamond will appear whiter next to a gold setting, whereas a white gold setting will make the diamond look less pure if you compare the two side-by-side.

Clarity

The clarity of a diamond refers to the number and nature of inclusions or blemishes that are visible when you view it under a microscope. Some diamond professionals refer to clarity as “purity” or “quality,” but neither of those start with “C,” so we’ll stick with clarity.

A blemish is an imperfection on the surface of a diamond, and an inclusion is a small spot contained within it. Diamonds with little or no imperfections such as these are rarer, and much more valuable. Five factors determine a diamond’s clarity: the size, number, position, nature and “relief” of the inclusions. Relief describes the level of visibility of these imperfections. The clarity scale of a diamond is the easiest to understand: It varies from Flawless, to Internally Flawless, and from there goes to VVS, VS, SI and I. These are easy to understand and remember, because they stand for: Very Very Slightly included, Very Slightly included, Slightly Included, and Included. Each of these designations has varying levels as well, but getting a handle on these will help you understand the importance of clarity in a diamond’s grading.

An “I” rated diamond will have inclusions that are visible to the naked eye, whereas even a skilled diamond expert would need a microscope to see the inclusions in an “SI” diamond. Because of this, diamonds rated “SI” usually represent the best value for your investment.

Important Note: Skilled jewelry makers often mount a diamond so as to mask an inclusion from sight, helping it appear more flawless. Before buying a diamond, be sure to examine it loose under a microscope to get a better idea of its clarity.

Carat

The last and most obvious characteristic that a diamond is measured by is its Carat (abbreviated “ct.”). A carat is a measure of weight, and it takes 142 of them to make an ounce.

Interesting bits of trivia:
• You can mail 142 one-carat diamonds with just a single postage stamp (Not that you would want to)!
• The majority of diamonds used in jewelry weigh less than one carat.

Obviously, a diamond’s carat weight can have a big effect on its value. When written, carat weights are expressed as decimal numbers: 1.00 ct., 0.48 ct., 1.57 cts., and so on. In a piece which has more than one diamond, often times you will see the total carat weight of the diamonds shown.

At Spence Diamonds, each and every diamond comes with an official Diamond Certificate, which will give you a detailed blueprint of your diamond. Now that you understand the “Four C’s” of diamond grading, you’ll have a better understanding of these certificates, which give you detailed info on all of the factors discussed above, including a “plotting” that shows the exact location of inclusions and blemishes.

In the late 1990’s, the world became aware of the existence of “conflict diamonds,” jewels that have been used to fund insurgent or invading army’s war efforts.

Today, over 99% of the world’s diamond supply has been verified to be completely conflict free, and reputable retailers and suppliers of diamonds the world over have embraced a policy never to support the countries involved in the diamond trade that still engage in these practices. Still, retailers such as Spence Diamonds see the value in educating their customers and staff on the issue of conflict diamonds, to better understand the importance and the process of diamonds that are procured through fair trade.

In 2000, a joint initiative supported by the United Nations General Assembly created the Kimberly Process, an international certification regimen that aims to put an end to illegally traded diamonds. Today, 69 countries are legally bound by the rules of this strict and thorough process.

Any trade of diamonds between these 69 countries (which includes Canada, the U.S., Belgium and many of the African countries involved in the trade of diamonds) must adhere to these guidelines:

•Each participating country must have laws in place that mandate the Kimberly Process
•Any shipment of diamonds must be inspected to ensure that each shipment adheres to the guidelines
•They must then be shipped in tamper-proof containers
•They must be accompanied by a uniquely numbered, Government validated Kimberly Process certificate
•Shipments must only be made to participating countries in the Kimberly Process
•Each diamond, when sold by a retailer must be accompanied by the following warranty statement:

“The diamonds herein invoiced have been purchased from legitimate sources not involved in funding conflict and in compliance with United Nations Resolutions. The undersigned hereby guarantees that these diamonds are conflict free, based on personal knowledge and/or written guarantees provided by the supplier of these diamonds.”

In a very short time, the Kimberly Process has had a profound effect. In the six years since its creation, the Kimberly Process has reduced the trade of conflict diamonds, from 4% to less than 1% of the entire diamond industry.

Retailers like Spence Diamonds have always maintained a strict policy about the origin of their diamonds. The diamonds in Spence stores come from large, reputable diamond suppliers who ensure that the diamonds originated from Kimberly Process compliant countries such as Belgium and Canada. As a major centre for the trade of diamonds, Belgium has always had a system for diamond verification, even previous to the creation of the Kimberly Process. Today, Belgian diamond wholesalers employ one of the strictest levels of security when it comes to the trade of diamonds, according to the U.N.

All of the diamonds purchased for Spence Diamonds have been certified as conflict free.

A diamond is a treasure that should last a lifetime, and with the right care and maintenance, so can that incomparable sparkle. At Spence Diamonds, we want you to enjoy your diamond’s sparkling beauty for generations, so here’s a few “dos and don’ts” of caring for your new diamond:

It is okay to:
•Clean your jewelry in warm, soapy water with a soft brush
•Use a mild soap, such as dish soap
•Use products designed specifically for cleaning diamonds (ask us in store for details)

It is not wise to:
•Wear your jewelry when using abrasive cleaning products, or ones that contain bleach or chlorine
•Wear your diamond during manual labour activities, while using heavy equipment, weightlifting or while playing sports (for your own safety as well as that of your jewelry)

The setting of your diamond and the metals used in bands, bracelets and necklaces should be taken into consideration, too. Especially in the case of gold, you want to be sure that the cleaning products you choose won’t tarnish the finish of your precious metals. By following the guidelines above, you should be able to keep your valuables in showroom shape, plus it gives you a perfect use for your old toothbrushes! On that note, its best if you stick to mild soap and water with your toothbrush. Today’s new toothpastes are great for getting your teeth whiter, but are usually much too abrasive for your jewels.

Everyday wear and tear, and even the perspiration and natural oils from your fingers can have an effect on your jewelry’s natural glow over time, so a regular cleaning will ensure that they always look their best.

If you have any questions about the proper care of your jewelry, you can visit any Spence Diamonds showroom. We’d be happy to offer plenty of tips on proper care and maintenance of your jewelry investment.

Most often, rashes and infections on your skin caused by jewelry are a result of nickel allergy. Ever had an itchy red spot under a jean stud or watch buckle? Maybe when you had your ears pierced you developed an unusually uncomfortable reaction?

Nickel is the metal that causes the most rashes. And it is also quite commonly used in almost anything metal, for e.g.: jewelry, kitchen utensils, scissors, paper clips, keys and of course the coin by the same name. Nickel has a more whitish appearance, so such metals as white gold, silver and all kinds of silver-coloured metals (other than sterling silver) can and likely do contain some amount of nickel. 18 or 24 carat yellow gold do not contain nickel, but 10-carat yellow gold may have traces of nickel, too.

How Do You Know if You Have an Allergy to Nickel?

The first sign of nickel allergy is red and itchy skin, in the areas that have come in contact with metal, such as under a ring or necklace. Later on, tiny water blisters appear, making the skin moist and even oozy, and can even cause it to peel off. At this point, you probably want to be searching for jewelry that cooperates with your skin a little better. If the condition carries on for a long time, your skin may become red, scaly and cracked, and the rash can spread to other areas of your skin that have never even been in contact with nickel! So it’s worth doing your homework on how to avoid such a reaction.

Some Good News, Some Bad News

The bad news first: Once you’ve become sensitive to nickel, you’re likely to stay that way for the rest of your life. The good news is that over time, you may become less sensitive to nickel allergy. But there is hope as there are still plenty of metals that you can safely wear, including 18 and 14 carat gold, sterling silver, and a number of other hypo-allergenic metals. In addition, if you discover an allergy to nickel with an existing piece of your jewelry, Spence Dimaonds offers an electrochemical process called rhodium plating that coats the ring and protects your finger from exposure to nickel. It is a very easy and very common process that will not harm your ring in any way. If you’d like to know more, we’d be happy to answer your questions about rhodium plating in one of our showrooms.

If you think that you might have an allergy to nickel, ask a member of our staff in one of our Spence Diamonds showrooms to help you select an item that will not only add a bit of sparkle to your life, but will also be safe and comfortable next to your skin.

The brochures are FREE for retailers from GIA. Just send them an email at myorder@gia.edu with your Name, company name, and mailing address.

The first 100 brochures are free. Additional brochures can be purchased at $12.50/100 brochures plus shipping and tax. You can go to gia.edu to get more information. 

Direct link: http://lgdl.gia.edu/pdfs/4cs_brochure.pdf

Gia Article Link: http://www.gia.edu/gemtradelab/31510/sales_support.cfm 

If you’ve never been shopping for engagement rings before, it’s understandable that you feel a little lost at first. Our diamond consultants at Spence Diamonds would love to teach you everything you need to know about diamonds and rings, but here’s a bit of an introduction and a “what to watch for.”

Engagement rings are a very important symbol of commitment, and perhaps she’s been dreaming of receiving hers for a long time. With a bit of planning, you can surprise her with a ring that will be exactly as she’s always wished. Below are some key tips to consider during the research stage:

1. First, keep an eye out for the obvious stuff. Is she dropping hints, like making sure you notice how much she loves the look of her friend’s new ring? If she is, tune in and take notes, because in those few moments she may specify exactly what she likes, and what she’d prefer to be different in a ring of her own. If you miss a hint like that, then the next few steps are even more crucial; if you’re lucky though, you might pick up such useful info such as whether she prefers diamond solitaire rings, or how important the size of a diamond is to her. Maybe she’d prefer a collection of smaller jewels, or a more classic, even vintage look?

2. The next thing to consider when it’s time to start ring shopping is her preference for the jewelry she already owns. Does she prefer yellow gold, or does she lean more toward white gold and silver? Are the designs of her current jewelry more modern, conservative, intricate or simple? Are there any items she never takes off, like an heirloom locket or watch? A quick scan of her current collection should tell you a lot about her preferences, and even give you an idea of what will match with the ring you choose.

3. Another key thing to be sure about is the correct size of her finger. This one can get a bit tricky, especially if you’re trying to surprise her. To help you out, Our Spence Diamonds website has an online, printable ring sizer that will make it easier for you to choose the size that will fit her just right.

4. Having a bit of background on diamonds never hurt either. Here are a few quick definitions of the “Four C’s” of diamond quality, to help prepare for the next step in your buying process, when you visit a Spence Diamond Showroom to learn even more:

Cut

Nothing is more important to the brilliance and sparkle of a diamond than its cut, as it is responsible for around 40% of a diamond’s price. A well cut diamond will reflect light from one facet to another and back through the top, creating a dramatic sparkling effect that only a diamond can emit. Only the most skilled diamond cutters can shape a diamond with exacting precision, to release its full brilliance, taking into account such factors as proportions, finish, and of course symmetry.

Colour

The whiter the diamond, the more valuable it is. Even the slightest hint of colour can have an effect on the cost of a diamond.
There are also various coloured diamond choices available today, but when it comes to the white ones, their quality is rated on scale from D-Z. A “D” is pure white, whereas a “Z” would be visibly yellow.

Clarity

The clarity of a diamond refers to the number and nature of inclusions or blemishes that are visible when you view it under a microscope. Some diamond professionals refer to clarity as “purity” or “quality,” but neither of those start with “C,” so we’ll stick with clarity.

Carat

The last and most obvious characteristic that a diamond is measured by is its Carat weight (abbreviated “ct.”) which is usually a shown as a decimal point, e.g. 0.72 carat. The majority of diamond engagement rings are less than 0.5 carat.

The last question that you’ll face when it comes time to pick a ring will be “How much should I spend?” Many jewelry sellers will tell you that a certain number of months of salary is the standard, but at Spence, we disagree. Instead, we tell our customers that your investment should be whatever you feel comfortable with, and whatever suits your budget.

Remember, when researching the perfect ring for her, the best thing you can due is to pay attention to the hints she leaves, even if she’s not meaning to. She might be obvious about it, and she might give you nothing at all to work with, so follow the guidelines above as closely as possible. And don’t be afraid to ask us for help in one of our Spence Diamonds showrooms.

Colors can vary considerably depending on the circumstances in which the stone is viewed. Diamonds appearing brownish-pink in daylight can be miraculously transformed into wonderful reddish diamonds under a more yellow light source. Other diamonds, aptly called “chameleon-type,” actually change color under the influence of different circumstances. Some of these take their time in returning to their original hue, so that it is possible to actually see them change gradually over a period of time after exposure to different light. For instance, some pink diamonds may suddenly turn brown when illuminated with ultraviolet (UV) light, only to return to their original color after being removed from UV light. Other diamonds can temporally change color when kept in complete darkness for a while, or when they are heated.While judging “normal” colors is mainly a matter of comparison with master stones to see whether diamonds is darker or lighter than the test stones, evaluating color diamonds is a much more complex problem. The description of colored diamonds proves to be a real challenge to a diamond-grading lab. Colorimetry is in itself a complex matter, and the fact that diamonds have very specific physical properties does not make matters any easier.

A Lab must therefore develop a system for diamond color grading that takes into account all possible problems such a system must meet certain requirements:

1. It must be scientifically sound and based on objective standards
2. The nomenclature used must be clear to the client. Scientific jargon must be translated into terms intelligible not only to the professional but also to the consumer;
3. The system must be transparent and not unnecessarily complicated;
4. Consistency must be sufficiently guaranteed;
5. And the system must answer the needs of the market.

In designing the Antwerp diamonds high council (HRD) fancy color system considerably effort was made to combine all these factors. It goes without saying that maximum consistency is the primary concern. The other issues demand a compromise between scientific accuracy and complexity on the one hand, and transparency and accessibility on the other hand.

The first step was to look for a reference standard to be used as a basis. Extensive tests have proven that color description based purely on visual observation without reference material is not reliable. Therefore, the Munsell Book of Color was chosen to serve as the reference standard for the HRD system. From HRD’s point of view, an extra recommendation is that the firm Macbeth, editor of Munsell Book of Color, is certified according to Internationals Organizations for Standardizations (ISO) 9001 standards and that all Munsell color samples are precisely measured spectrophotometrically to ensure that strict manufacturing tolerances are met. All Munsell standard measurements are furthermore traceable to NIST (National Institute for Standards and Technology). CIE data (International Commission on Illumination) are also available.

The Munsell Book of Color is a collection of color standards, in the shape of removable color chips, catalogued according to the three color parameters - hue, chroma, and value. For the description of the three parameters, Munsell has given each parameter a numerical scale. Each color chip in the book can be identified by its unique combination of numbers referring to the three scales. Each color card can therefore be defined by the so-called “Munsell Notation” - HV/C (Hue Value/Chroma).

Hue is the parameter distinguishing between red, yellow, green, blue and purple. These colors fade into one another. Black, gray, and white do not have “hue”; they are called “neutral colors.” All other colors that do have hue are called “chromatic colors.”

Value is a parameter to distinguish between light and dark colors. The scale runs from 0 (black) to 10 (white). The scale can be used both for neutral and chromatic colors.

Chroma expresses the measure of saturation of the color. It defines whether it contains a “weak” (i.e., low chroma) or “intense” (i.e., high chroma) color. The scale starts from 0 and can, for normal materials, range to approximately 18. This system is (relatively easily applied to color diamond grading. The diamond is compared to the Munsell color cards, and the card that resembles the color of the stone the closest is determined. Once the right color card has been selected, the color can be named accordingly.

It is possible to describe colors on various levels of accuracy. This system couples a certain name to each of the Munsell color cards. This name consists of various elements. First of all, there is a description of the hue, giving names such as yellow or yellow-green. Secondly, each color chip also gets a prefix, based on the combination of the value and the chroma. A color with a certain chroma can have a high or low value and vice versa. Prefix and color hue together (e.g., moderate purplish-red) should give quite a good idea of the color, even without seeing the diamond and without having access to the Munsell book.

The color hues give a good indication of the color, and the prefixes used by the National Bureau of Standards (NBS) are very detailed, but for noncolor specialists they can be confusing. Therefore, HRD has simplified and adapted the NBS system to make it more suitable for the description of diamond color. It was certainly not the intention to suggest that this is an improvement on the NBS system, which, on the whole, is very sound and logical. On the contrary, it is in fact a simplification dictated by the needs of the specific application in question, which does not allow the system to be used in its entirety.

In practice, colored diamonds are often referred to as “fancy colors.” However, the undiscriminating use of a term renders it useless and it is therefore not advisable to simply use this for every color outside the colorless-to-slightly-yellow range. Most people in the diamond trade agree that “fancy” should be reserved for especially “beautiful” and “attractive” colored diamonds. For a lab, of course, this is not a workable definition as it is based on purely subjective taste. Therefore, a definition was drawn up combining requirements as to color hue and intensity - the diamonds must have a pure color and the intensity must fulfill certain criteria, dependent on the hue.

In an attempt towards classification, diamonds can be divided into three large groups - diamonds with a yellow color hue, diamonds with a brown/gray color hue and diamonds with a different color hue. This can be schematically represented as demonstrated below. Only the diamonds falling in the shaded zones can be called “fancy.”

It goes without saying that this grading system is supported by the use of master stones defining certain limits. The descriptions are, after all, open to interpretation, and comparing diamonds with reference stones is still the best method to ensure consistency in grading.

Talking about consistency and repeatability, it is important to stress that the final decision is always based on the judgment of several graders (as are all decisions in the HRD lab, whether it concerns color, clarity or cut).

The grading system described here has been in use at HRD for many years, and has amply proved to be practical and serviceable. Nevertheless, constant efforts are made to optimize the techniques, and if possibilities for improvement occur these are integrated in the system.

Note that all the preceding remarks apply to natural diamonds with a natural color origin. Diamonds owing their color to artificial treatment or synthetic diamonds are, predefinition, not graded by HRD.

PREFIXES USED BY HRD:

Faint: The color hue cannot be perceived through the crown side of the stone, and is only faintly noticeable through the pavilion side. For example, faint pink.

Light: The color hue can be perceived through the crown side, and is clearly noticeable through the pavilion side. For example, light blue.

No Prefix: The color hue can be clearly perceived through the crown side and the pavilion side of the stone. For example, blue.

Intense: The color hue is very noticeable through the crown side. Saturated color with normal to high value. For example, intense yellow.

Dark: The color hue is very noticeable through the crown side. Saturated color with low value. For example, dark yellowish brown.

Translucent: “Translucent” in this context is used according to the scientific definition, i.e. “transmitting light but not transparent.” In other words, translucent stones have a reduced transparency. The intensity is not further specified. For example, translucent white.

The most important factor when buying diamond jewellery is to look at the way the diamond is cut, its proportion and symmetry, says Pierre Joubert of The Diamond Club these factors determine how a diamond handles light, if its cut badly it will not have the brilliance. It really is the human factor - the work that goes into the diamond - that makes all the difference. Never compromise on the quality and cut of the diamond.

Buy your diamond jewellery from a reliable source or an established retailer. It is common practice to ask that the diamond be certified by an independent international laboratory such as GIA, EGL, DCLA, HRD, IGI, AGS.

Be extremely cautious when buying coloured diamonds, as it is very difficult to tell if the gem is natural or treated. Coloured diamonds that have been are heated to enhance their hue and could be a budget substitute if the natural one falls outside your budget. They are used more as a fashion item, in this year and out the next. When buying coloured diamonds, as with any diamond, insist on a laboratory certificate.

According to Pierre platinum or white gold surrounding not only enhances the colour of the jewel, but also makes it appear bigger. Yellow or red gold makes the diamond look slightly smaller.

Whether or not to insure diamond jewellery is a personal choice, However if you opt for the former ensure your jewels are covered under all risks.

PRONG VS TUBE TESTING

When deciding between a prong or a tube setting, consider these pros and cons. The classical prong setting allows dirt to collect under the claws more easily, which dulls the diamond, while the tube setting tends to last longer and are less likely to collect dirt. In the end it depends on your personal preference.

THE 4C’S AND THE S
Diamonds are valued according to the 4C`s and the S

CUT: This is determined by the rough stone, the diamond in its natural form. The precision and symmetry of the cut gives a diamond its brilliance, releasing the sparkle within in it, if the cut is well proportioned, then a diamond reflects light internally from facet to facet and disperses it through the crow, or top, of the diamond. I f the stone has been cut too shallow or too deep light escapes from the side facets or the bottom dulling the brilliance.

COLOUR

Diamonds come in many shades, ranging from colourless, white, yellow and brown to more intense colours such as orange, pink, green and black. Of white diamonds the most valuable is the colourless gem, which is called a D colour. The total range is from D to Z which is yellow. In coloured diamonds the higher the intensity of colour and brilliance, the more valuable the stone. For budget purposes look for stones that are slightly tinted as this allows you to purchase a bigger size that creates more of an impact.

CARAT

This measures the weight of the diamond. One carat is equivalent to 0.2g and there are 100 points per carat. If budget conscious consider purchasing diamonds just under half a carat or just under a full carat because the price jumps drastically when it reaches a true half or full carat.

CLARITY

The number of flaws or inclusions within a stone and their position determine the diamonds clarity. These inclusions come from come in the form of carbon spots or fractures, some of which are not visible to the naked eye. Inclusions affect the brilliance of a diamond. The fewer the inclusions, the better the refraction of light through the diamond, and the higher the value. The clarity is also judged by the position of the inclusions, the less obvious an inclusion the higher the value

SHAPE

The more traditional diamond cuts include round brilliant, oval, marquise, pear, heart and emerald. Two new diamond cuts have been introduced the Asher square cut diamond and the Royal Radiant Cut is emerald shaped from the top with the light bursts from inside the stone.

CARE AND HANDLING

Diamonds get dirty easily, but are simple to clean; diamonds attract grease, so use any degreasing agent, like dish washing liquid. A little warm water and a tooth brush to get the sparkle back, says Pierre Joubert. Air dry on a paper towel and then polish with a soft cloth.

If your diamond is grimy and the setting looks dark around the edges, take the piece to a jeweller for a professional cleaning.

Diamonds can get scratched, so don’t put them down on tile or marble. Store them individually in soft, cloth bags

COLOUR GUIDE

WHITE: White diamonds are actually colourless and clear. By far the mot popular gemstones, they come from mines all over the world, in many different shapes, sizes and levels of quality.

BROWN: The least pricey, brown diamonds come in champagne cognac and cocoa. Bright yellow gold, blackened silver and black rhodium platinum are the most common settings for them.

BLACK: Jewellery designers started using black diamonds widely only a few years ago. For contrast, they are usually combined with other gems usually white diamonds and set in platinum or white gold.

YELLOW: Yellow or canary, these are the most popular and expensive coloured diamonds and range from pale to bright. They are often set in yellow gold to intensify their colour.

PINK:

Before the 1984 discovery of an Australian source, pink diamonds were extremely rare now very popular, and still expensive, they range from pale seashell to raspberry and are usually set in pink gold.

GREEN:

Gems for the collector, green diamonds are very rare and very expensive. The colours range from brass-green to green-yellow. Green diamonds are mounted in platinum, gold and blackened silver.